#lange-tour
9 posts · all tags
Bloody Old Men: first up this year
A long route on the Rotspitze, fully bolted but with plenty of loose rock — and a descent that wouldn't end.
Drachentanz: 23 pitches, 12 hours car to car
A long day on the Tajakopf with Papa. The crux comes right at the start, with cold fingers and a heavy pack.
Sonnenzeit: eleven hours on the Sonnenspitz
A long route, a freezing start, wide bolt spacing — and a descent that drags.
Slovenian Route: the Triglav north face
A long, demanding line up the north face of Slovenia's highest peak. Without crampons we lost a lot of time on the old snow.
Dibona route: 17 pitches moving together
Done on the second attempt. The lower section went in three hours, after which Franzi was pretty spent.
Il canto dell'Indria: 15 pitches of sustained grade 5
Long and consistently demanding. Franzi was effectively done from about pitch seven.
PinzgaWurm: 45 pitches and one shoe short
Away at four, back at the car at half seven. I lost an approach shoe on the face.
Sonnenpfeiler: entirely alone, wet in places
A very good long route on the Wilder Kaiser, with an entertaining A0 traverse.
Via del Calice: 13 hours car to car
14 pitches, all on gear, and a party ahead of us. Then we got the descent wrong.