Slovenian Route: the Triglav north face
A long, demanding line up the north face of Slovenia's highest peak. Without crampons we lost a lot of time on the old snow.
Machine-translated from the German original. The German version is the one I actually wrote.
The Triglav north face is big, and you notice it mostly in how long you’re in it without the exit getting any closer.
Technically the Slovenian Route isn’t hard. We climbed almost all of it unroped and only belayed briefly up top in the loose ground, where it stopped feeling good.
We lost a lot of time on the old snowfield because we had no crampons. In July you could have anticipated that; we didn’t, and then you stand there kicking steps, which is slow and unpleasant.
Then on to the summit. The descent was brutally tedious, two and a half hours, and by that point you’ve already been out a good while.