#arco
19 posts · all tags
Via Esculapio as a three
A good route on the Padaro. I led it, but there wasn't much to place.
Via Elda on the Paolo wall
A perfectly nice route. Franzi was a bit grumpy, and the Paolo wall is the Paolo wall.
Lara: a genuinely bad route
Polished, loose, a via ferrata directly overhead and rockfall to match. Plus a thunderstorm coming in.
The crack opposite Camping Zoo
Tried the obvious crack in the morning and rappelled off. In the afternoon, the left-hand route, whose name I've forgotten.
Caliope: restaging our first photo in Arco
A nice easy route at Ceniga — and a photograph that now exists twice.
Via Sabina: misread and completely overrun
Far too easy for the day and full of people. Perfectly nice otherwise.
Katia Monte: good classic, brutally polished
An alpine classic on the Colodri with a lot of traversing. Somewhat grassy in the middle.
Pantarei: the topo didn't match
A short warm-up route by the campsite. Listed as easier than it was — consistently grade 7.
La Luna Argentea: cruised through quickly
Very well protected, short walk in, quick descent. Franzi wasn't fully on form but got on with it.
La Ceniga Rossa: a quick afternoon route
After rappelling off Le Scalette dell'Indria after one pitch, we got on this instead.
Fiori di Primavera: practising rope commands
A pleasant plaisir route on the Regina del Lago, for practising rope commands and belay handling.
Via Barbara: the whole Colodri east face
A great route, off-line twice low down and considerably worse protected than the Via del Bepi. The crack corner is the highlight.
Via del Bepi on the Colodri
Hard down low, lovely up high — and better protected than the guidebook makes out.
Parete Nera: alpine protection, as a three
A great route on the San Paolo. Maxi led six pitches, I led three.
Via delle Fontane: Franzi's first alpine fall
One of the earliest routes in the Sarca valley, and alpine to match. Off route, and then into a piton and a tree.
Via Artemis: the rappel is the highlight
Lost on the approach, very good otherwise. Fully bolted these days, so cams are redundant.
Via Spignola: slab climbing that gets into your feet
Sport-protected slabs at the Sonnenplatten. Very good, and draining in an inconspicuous way.
Via dei Ciclamini: first and last pitches unroped
Very easy climbing at both ends, and the middle feels like the Sonnenplatten.
Caldo Inverno: last pitch hard for the grade
Arco, and the route saves the hardest bit for the end.