Via del Bepi on the Colodri

Hard down low, lovely up high — and better protected than the guidebook makes out.

Machine-translated from the German original. The German version is the one I actually wrote.

Approach from opposite the swimming pool, up the via ferrata to the wide hairpin by the big grotto, then off the path and across to the grotto.

The lower section is the hard part. I did the move on A0. The guidebook lists the route as R3, meaning poorly protected — which I found overstated, frankly. Between the old slings and the pitons it was entirely fine. Old doesn’t automatically mean bad here.

After that it gets nicer. Through a niche leftwards onto a ledge, then a corner and grassy, alpine cracks up to the big roof. The leftward traverse below it is on small holds, and the crack after the roof is genuinely good — the best part of the route.

You need hexes and Friends. Anyone packing only quickdraws is going to have a bad time.